Volcan Mountain

I decided to go hike up Volcan Benchmark again now that some of the restrictions have eased. Figured an early morning hike would also reduce the number of people I might encounter on the hike. I pulled off the road next to the trailhead to the Volcan Wilderness Preserve. It was a bit brisk, so I had my warmer gear with me as I set off. Making my way up the familiar trail, my knee was feeling just a bit off. I have been having issues with it for a while. While I had hoped to be at or near the summit for sunrise, my pace wasn’t going to allow that.

As I climbed up the trail, the sound of birds chirping filled the air. Reaching the last section along the ridge, a pair of coyotes bounded ahead of me. Shortly thereafter, they began howling. I tried to record it but they stopped before I could capture it.

Once I reached the summit, I set out to find all three marks. I knew two were under the trees next to the Air Beacon. But where was the main one? The directions on the reference marks proved unhelpful. Peakbagger ‘s map did not seem to offer any more help.

I headed back onto the trail and decided to make the full loop. It was then I spotted the cement post. From an earlier photo I had seen, I knew there was a mark inside!

It certainly is not aligned with the two reference marks, but I will take it. I needed to be back in San Diego so my wife could use the car, so I began heading back down. Thankfully, the knee stayed about the same. Usually descents made it hurt more. As I came to the junction with the Five Oaks Trail, I decided to take it. I have never done it before. The first time I hiked Volcan, it was closed due to bees. The second time, I was more interested in comparing time with the first summit.

This trail is a single track that leads you through some beautiful scenery. It was here I encountered my first set of hikers. I stood off to the side with my buff raised, as they passed quickly. It was nice to see them don their masks. A bit later, I encountered my second group, three women, and their dogs. They stopped and I quickly passed by. Again, all three were wearing masks. The Five Oaks Trail reconnects about 3/4 of a mile from the trailhead. Here I had my third encounter, this time with a family of four making their way up. Again, all had masks. I gave them a heads up on the traffic I had seen.

As I was making my way down the last grade, three older hikers were just starting their hike. Sadly, the mask streak was broken. Two were walking across from one another, and as I stood off to the side, I began to wonder if the one nearer to me would move away. He didn’t. I was disappointed, as they looked like folks who hike regularly.

Upon reaching the ornate trailhead, a sheriff was beginning to hike up. I said a cheerful hello as I stepped away to allow him to pass.

Back at the car, I tossed my gear in, noting the request to park an extra distance away from each car was ignored. But, with that, my second peak of this year’s Six-Pack of Peaks was completed.

I am an avid peak bagger, sometimes backpacker, and former sea kayaker living in San Diego. In 2019, I became the third person to complete the San Diego 100 Peak Challenge. Not stopping with that accomplishment, I set my sights on the harder San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list, which I completed in 2021. In addition, I have conquered several Six-Pack of Peaks challenges (SoCal, San Diego, Central Coast, and Arizona-Winter). Beyond attempting the San Diego Sierra Club 100 Peak list a second time, I am looking forward to exploring new summits and new adventures across the southwest.

Palomar High Point (via Oak Grove)

Hiked: March 15, 2020
Summit: 6,130 feet
Distance: 13.2 miles
Elevation Gain: 3,520 feet
Round Trip Time: 5 hrs 45 mins

Our plan for the day was to drive out toward the Schoepe Boy Scout Reservation and hike out to Collins and Knob Benchmarks. This hike was going to be somewhere between 11 and 12 hours, so an early start was in order. We met up at the McDonald’s in Rancho Bernardo around 5 am and headed north toward Temecula. From there we would come back down the 79 to Chihuahua Valley Road then onto Lost Valley Road. As we drove on the dirt road, we encountered a closed gate. Crud. Although it was not locked, we opted not to proceed, as I had hit a few muddy spots already.

So, we thought about what alternate peaks we might go for instead. Both Matt and I needed to summit Palomar High Point for our respective lists, so up the 79, we went. Parking near the Oak Grove Fire Station, we geared up and headed off, following the nearby sign to the Oak Grove Trail.

Quickly the trail began its sharp climb, gaining about 1,500 feet in just under 2 miles. The trail was a little muddy in some spots, but nothing troublesome. With the cloudy skies, there was no worry about getting too warm from the lack of shade.

The single-track trail then connected with the Oak Grove Fire Road. We took a short breather here before continuing. We stayed on this road for about 1.5 miles until we reached the High Point Truck Trail. Along the way we caught some great views of the snow-capped peaks of Mt. San Gorgonio and Mt. San Jacinto to our north. While not as steep as the first section of this hike, you still will be working those quads!

After about 5 miles into the hike, we reached the junction with the Palomar Divide Truck Trail. It was near here that I had parked on my previous times to the summit, so the rest of the hike was familiar. We started getting closer to the summit and the clouds were getting closer as well, so we donned another layer before continuing to the summit.

As we rounded the final section of the hike, we could feel the wind pick up and knew that we would not be lingering at the summit. We took a short break for some food and a few photos. The white domes of the Palomar Observatory were to our west. The tower was closed for the season (you can’t go up even if it is open).

We retraced our route back down the mountain, encountering several other hikers making their way up to the summit. I don’t think we stopped for any measurable period of time during our entire descent. Back in the car, we wondered when we might be able to try for Collins and Knob, given the forecast for the week and the uncertainty about Covid-19. With that said, we did the 13.2 miles in 5:45 hrs. That was the first peak toward my Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. I am aiming to complete all 18 this year. Wish me luck!

Santa Ysabel West Preserve

Besides working on completing the Sierra Club San Diego 100 peaks list, I am also working on completing the San Dieguito’s River Foundations’ Coast to Crest Challenge. I knocked off three of the five hikes around New Years’. With my usual peak-bagging partners occupied, I decided to go do one of the remaining hikes, Santa Ysabel West Preserve.

Dave Myron and I pulled into the empty parking lot just before 8 am. Thankfully, the gate was already open. We geared up and headed off. The entire trail is about 5.5 long and follows a lollipop pattern. This challenge requires a selfie at a particular spot along the trail, in this case near the top of the lollipop.

After a short flat section, the trail makes its first small climb. The trail then continues to work its way up and down the hills. We carefully crossed a nicely flowing stream before the final climb to the selfie spot. The grazing cows barely gave us notice as we passed by. The views were quite nice with Volcan Mountain rising to the east, and Cuyamaca to the southeast.

Upon our return, we meet a couple of groups of hikers, also enjoying the trail. Soon we were back at the car and headed back into town. I had hoped to get the final hike in on Sunday, but rain showers had other plans.

Peak 1546

Today was going to be an attempt at summiting 3 peaks; P1546, Cemetery Hill, and Oak Benchmark. All three are located off Eagle Peak road, just west of Julian. Given the forecast, I got an early start to the day. I arrived just after sunrise at the trailhead. P1546 sits just before Cedar Creek Falls.

I would be following the old road down to the junction with the trail to Cedar Creek Falls. Technically a permit is needed to summit this peak. I decided to be a good citizen and pay my $6.

By starting early, much of the hike is in shade. After about 1.5 miles or so, I reached the base of the peak. I then followed a slightly overgrown trail to the summit.

There is no register nor benchmark, but some nice views are the reward.

I made my way back up to the car having bagged my 81st peak.

Oak Benchmark

After returning from Cemetery Hill, I took a break at the trailhead and chatted with a couple of hunters who were packing up to try their luck elsewhere. Oak Benchmark was going to be my final peak of the day. While it should only be about a mile round trip, it is steep and without any trail to follow. I remember some of my previous route from last time but knew it was going to be one of the route-finding skills treks. Just south of where I parked, is a nice meadow that serves as the best starting point for the peak.

From there it is up, any way you can. There was some poison oak to avoid, as I eventually found my way to the summit.

This time a register was waiting to be signed, but also two marks to photograph. While the hike gains about 500 feet in .5 miles, there were some fantastic views to be had as a reward.

It was getting warmer, so I made my careful descent. Back at my car, I was now done with all my non-desert peaks for my 100 Peak Challenge, just 17 to go!

Cemetery Hill

After summiting P1546, I drove back up Eagle Peak Road to the shared trailhead for Cemetery Hill and Oak Benchmark. Along the way, I passed a modest amount of hunters parked along the side of the road. I knew I would need to be alert for the next two hikes. I swapped my normal hat for my red ball cap. Cemetery Hill is another inverted peak, like P1546, so down another old road, I went.

Once at the base of the descent, I had about 1.5 miles to cover over some easy rolling terrain. As I neared the peak, I would have to go cross-country to the summit.

I soon found myself passing the wooden posts that mark the cemetery. There are no other markers to be found. At the true summit, I had a nice rest under the shade of oak before heading back.

That was peak #82 of my #100PeakChallenge.

Chariot Mountain

Unlike the last time I tried to hike this peak about a month ago, the temperatures were pleasant and the winds light (think 44°F and 20-25 mph winds). I parked next to the Pedro Fagas monument and gathered my gear. The route to Chariot starts by following the California Riding and Hiking Trail. You can stay on it for a while, then take the Mason Valley Truck Trail down for a 9-mile hike. Instead, I decided to follow some faint use trails across the meadow that would take me to the Pacific Crest Trail for about a 5.5-mile hike instead.

The meadow grasses were pretty high, so I took extra care as I made my way across it. After about .8 of a mile, I came to the PCT, from here I quickly began looking for some metal fence posts to the east, these would indicate the steep trail down the ridgeline. The first time I did this hike I missed them and did an extra quarter mile on the PCT.

With the use trail found, I began my descent. Chariot Mountain is an inverted peak, meaning you start higher than the summit. The trail was not too bad, I certainly have bushwhacked through worse recently. It was as steep as I remembered from last time, but the uncertainty that hung over me was no longer there. Making it feel a bit easier. However, I still was not looking forward to ascending it on my return. Chariot Mountain was clearly visible across the valley, and Granite Mountain standing behind it.

The trail came to end on Mason Valley Truck Trail. A wooden post on the side of the road would serve as a marker to locate it on the way back. The road appeared to have been graded not too long ago, as machinery treads were visible on the roadbed.

At the T, I turned right and Chariot drew closer. There is an old fire break that serves as the trail to the summit. In fact, the turnoff is marked by a bramble of deadwood blocking it from vehicle access. The climb up was steady, with one steeper section to deal with, but soon I reached the summit plateau and made my way to the true summit.

There is no Benchmark here, but tucked in some rocks was the register. As I enjoyed the views, I flipped through it, seeing many familiar names. After adding mine as a 2x’er, I headed back down, and then back up. Can you tell I wasn’t looking forward to that part…

The ascent up from the road went slow, my snack on the summit didn’t give me the boost I had hoped for. But I slogged on and finally reached the top. From there it was a pleasant stroll back across the meadow, again staying mostly on established use trails.

Chariot Mountain was #77 of #100PeakChallange.

Manza Benchmark

After summiting Sheephead Mountain, I drove a short way back down Sunrise Highway to the trailhead. I actually grabbed a spot right next to it. Both the Sunset and Big Laguna trails start from here, so it is a popular spot. I grabbed my gear and set out again. The Sunset Trail is a hiking-only trail so I did not worry about being run over by a mountain bike since the Big Laguna Loop is a very popular trail for them.

As I cruised along the trail, I spotted patches of poison oak to either side. I had a feeling that this was going to be an issue on this summit attempt. Soon I reached the meadow that I needed to cross to join up with the use trail that would take me down the ravine and then back up to Manza Benchmark. As I set off across it, poison oak was scattered about. This was going to be a challenge.

I never found the use trail in the actual meadow, but on the other side, I spotted it and began my descent. The trail through this section was fairly easy to follow and only slightly overgrown, but tons of poison oak to attempt to avoid. After losing about 300 feet of elevation, it was time to make the steep climb out of the ravine. The bugs had started to come out, so on went the bug net.

The trail became fairly well marked with cairns as it quickly rose to the ridgeline. Poison oak continued to grow everywhere, I only hoped my contact would not become an issue later.

So I reached the crest of the mountain and turned northward. Here I would meander through the manzanita and over boulders toward the summit. The trail here was a bit more overgrown and I had a few spots that took a moment to resolve which way to go.

Finally, from atop the false summit, the Manza Benchmark stood before me. As I scrambled over the rocks, the same incredible view was presented to me. I sat on a rock and enjoyed a snack. I took my photos and again signed the register and began the trek down.

The return back to the Sunset Trail went by quickly, again hoping that the poison oak not going to leave a ‘gift’ for later. Soon, I was back at my car and my 74th peak of my 100 Peak Challenge was completed.

Sheephead Mountain

The plan for today was to summit two nearby peaks, Sheephead Mountain and Manza Benchmark both in the Lagunas. The first peak of this two-fer was going to be Sheephead. With the weather beginning to become fall-like, I did not need to be at the trailhead at sunrise. I drove down the semi-paved Kitchen Creek Road off of Sunrise Highway.

The trail seemed very familiar as the pine needles crunched under my boots. When I reached the other Kitchen Creek road, I made sure to leave a mark to find the use trail back up the ravine. I missed it the first time I summited.

As I cruised down the road, a few cows were hanging around and scampered off as I approached. Ignoring the locked gate and its warning, I continued down the road. Double-checking my original GPS route, I spotted a faint use trail and headed hopefully toward the summit.

I spotted the boundary sign and knew the entrance to the use trail. Now the real effort would begin, the trail would climb some 600 feet in about .3 miles. The trail was overgrown, in fact, I lost a bandanna somewhere in that mess. Maybe after the challenge is over I might return and do some maintenance.

Finally, the summit revealed itself before me. Conditions were much nicer this time, so I enjoyed the views without feeling I was going to be blown away…

I signed the register and took my photos before heading back down. I kept an eye out for my missing red bandanna, figuring it would be easy to spot, but alas I never found it. But I did find a pair of sunglasses. Too bad I need prescription ones.

The trail deposited me back on the road and I headed back up the road. The cows were still hanging around as I neared the turnoff to the trail to make my way up the ravine. I was pleased about getting another peak out of the way. That was peak #73 of my #100PeakChallenge. Now for the short drive to the trailhead for Manza Benchmark.

Eagle Crag

The sun was just rising as we parked the Subaru at the start of the Cutca Valley Trail for our hike out to Eagle Crag. This peak was a special one for me. My first attempt at the 100 Peak Challenge ended with 5 peaks left to summit, and Eagle Crag was one of those ‘Final Five’. When I began my ‘reboot’, I knew that this peak would be one of the challenges left to overcome. First, we checked the condition of the road to the actual trailhead. Thankfully, the High Point Truck Trail was in really good shape as it wound its way up from the Rancho California RV Resort just off the 79.

We knew the day was going to be a long one, some 18 or so miles of hiking with some decent elevation gains both there and back, not to mention the very steep ascent to the summit. The weather was going to be sunny and in the mid-70s, so having enough fluids with us was critical.

Once we passed the trail sign for the Cutca Valley Trail, we quickly plunged some 500 feet into Cottonwood Canyon. This ascent at the end of the day was not going to be fun. We followed the dry creek bed for a bit, taking care to avoid the poison oak that encroached onto the trail. The trail then began its climb up through a steep and narrow ravine before reaching Cutca Valley. There was some nice shade along this section, which we would appreciate upon our return. Every so often a blue and white ribbon would line the trail, not that they were truly needed for this section of the hike, but they gave us something to look for. The trail then came upon a wide clearing, and I thought this would be the perfect spot to stash one of the extra bottles of water I had brought. My idea was to have this reserve available to us to rehydrate if needed before we made our climb back out of Cottonwood Canyon. Also about this point, the small flies were becoming bothersome, so we donned our bug nets (the best $9 I ever spent) and continued on.

The trail then transformed into the remains of an old road and it would work its way up and down along the contours of the landscape for several miles. Nothing dramatic, but it would be something to deal with upon the trek back. While we had been hiking on the Cutca Valley Trail, we now segued onto the Cutca Trail.

Around the 4 mile point we took a break under the shade of a coastal oak before continuing on. The views to the south of the Palomar Mountains were impressive as we munched on some snacks. Eventually, we came to the turnoff for the Cutca Trail. We would be leaving the old road that we had been on and return back to a traditional trail. Next to this trail sign, Ted and I both stashed a water bottle, no sense in hauling the weight up to the summit.

The trail now began gaining some real elevation, and along with it some of the first real challenges with navigation. As we were now under the canopy of mostly alders, with some Douglas fir and Coutler pine tossed in for good measure, the trail would become harder to find. First, all those trees would provide leaves that would mask the trail at times. Second, the trail would cross back and forth across the currently dry creek bed. We could carefully work our way through the rocks, looking for where the trail would pick back up along its banks. The poison oak would be making its return along the trail, adding another level of caution as we pushed on.

The trail eventually leaves this section behind and starts a series of switchbacks for more elevation gain. The upside was the trail was again easy to follow, and as an added bonus, some great views of the mountains to the north again. Eventually, the trail reaches the junction with the abandoned Palomar Divide Road. Continuing westward, we began looking for the rock cairn that would mark the bottom of the steep ravine that would lead us to the summit.

This portion of the hike was brutal. To call this steep is an understatement, and pictures do not do it justice. Foot by foot we would work our way up the ravine. I had a recent GPX track loaded, as I did not spy any ribbons or other markings to guide us. This gave me an approximate sense of where we needed to go. Although we did have to punch through some brush and dead trees at times, we found ourselves on the plateau staring at the summit. Weaving our way through the manzanita, we made it to Eagle Crag!

This was a tremendous sense of accomplishment for me! One of the ‘Final 5’ was summited! (yes, I knew I still had 9 miles back to the car). There was also something that made it stand out personally for me. As I sat upon the crag and soaked in the view, I flipped through the register, spotting many familiar names. It was touching to see many thanking Jerry Schad, the original author of Afoot and Afield in San Diego. I also saw two groups had summited it the day before. I would be remiss as not to point out that this perch is not for those afraid of heights, as the drop-off is almost 1,000 feet down.

After a tasty and well-earned PB&J, some oranges, and some Gatorade, we finished up taking our photos and wandered to the north end of the summit to snap some more photos of our recently conquered Three Saints. It was a bit before 1 pm, so we decided to begin the 9 miles back to the car. We safely navigated our way back down the steep ravine, at times almost sliding. It reminded me of the descent of False Sombrero, just without the rocks.

While the summit was behind us, we knew that in addition to the miles we needed to cover, we still had some climbing ahead of us before we reached the car. Soon the switchbacks were behind us, and we again worked our way through the canyon, enjoying the shade (but not the bugs or the poison oak). As we reached the sign that marked the turn-off, we gathered our water cache. The day had become warmer, and this section of the hike was certainly more exposed as we retraced our route. I could feel both the temperature and the effort of this hike as we trekked on. We did hear the telltale sound of a rattle, and Ted spotted the tail before quickly moving on.

Finally, we came to where I had placed that first bottle. Ted was still feeling good, so I quickly drank it down, along with the last few slices of orange I had kept for the end of the hike. As we descended into Cottonwood Canyon, I broke out my final trick, a small can of Coke. I figured a nice burst of sugar and caffeine would help power me up that 500′ of elevation.

The sun was starting to set and cast its golden glow over the hillside as we plodded upward. We soon reached the car and our journey was complete. 18.4 miles and over a cumulative 3,600 feet of elevation gain. Carefully, we shed our hiking gear and wiped down to hopefully keep any poison oak from triggering a rash. With the sun now set, I carefully drove back down the dirt road and to a hearty dinner at a Mexican restaurant back in Temecula. With that my #72 peak of my #100PeakChallenge was in the books and the ‘Final Five’ is now the ‘Fantastic Four’!